The TAJ MAHAL and Varanasi

Hello hello again,

Well we made it! We finally arrived (only a few hours late) into Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. We found a great taxi driver called Waseem, who took us to somewhere we could dump our bags and shower for the day. Fully refreshed with food, we ventured out. Annoyingly, the tourists have to pay 750 rupees (15 US dollars) to enter, while the locals pay 25 rupees (50 cents). The difference is huge! Still, we felt we couldn't really turn around at this point, so carried on.

You walk through various gateways to enter the main part of the complex. The Taj is 'described as the most extravagant monument ever built for love, this sublime Mughal mausoleum is India's most ogled icon' (Lonely Planet, 2007). Built by Emperor Shah Jahan for his second wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who in 1631 died giving birth to their 14th child (not in a road traffic accident as 'Slumdog Millionaire' says!) What can I say really? Apart from that pictures never do justice to just how huge it is, how elegant and calming (despite hordes of tourists), how tasteful it is , built in marble, in a country awash with vibrant and garesh colours. An absolutely humungous building, with gorgeously inlaid flowers and writing on the walls with semi precious stones. Fortunately the sun shone a little while we were there which just transformed the place. The inner area houses 2 marble coffins for the Emperor and his wife, surrounded by a marble screen - actually the bodies are underneath in another basement room. But such a tranquil place on the river - and we weren't hassled by touts or little children selling us stuff half as much as I thought we would be. I did succumb a little to a very cute boy called Assif though and bought a little something! See the pictures on picasa that I put up - you can read far better descriptions of the Taj than from me!

We watched the sun set on it and headed onto another night train to Varanasi. By the time we arrived, we passed out for the afternoon in a deep sleep under the fan, and ended up eating at the hotel that night as we were told it wasn't safe for women to walk around alone after dark, as the daily electricity blackouts mean that men often grope women or worse in the dark alleyways.

So yesterday we woke at 5am - yes FIVE am, to get a boat along the holy Ganges river. Surrounded by Hindu people going about their morning business, we got into a (leaking) wooden boat, rowed by 2 guys and set off down the river. The water was very high and fast making rowing very difficult, but we (the guys) rowed us along, showing us the sights. Lots of buildings face onto the water, and at various points there are huge steps down to the river, called ghats. There are approximately 80 ghats around the area. When the water is lower you can walk along from one ghat to another, however at this time you have to walk through the alleyways instead.

We watched the sun rise, lit candles in lotus petals and set them on the river, and saw the beautiful buildings, temples, forts. And the people. So many! They bathe, pray, wash their clothes in the river, as well as their cows, they gossip and meet friends, and then get cremated after death and scattered into the river (where others are washing) as if you die in Varanasi, you break the life-death cycle. And there are huge numbers of holy men, shown by their huge beaded necklaces, shaven head or dreadlocks, or long curly hair, wearing usually less than others, sometimes with grey ash all over their bodies. Very extraordinary.

Such a strange and wonderful and unique place. We really feel as though we are in a completely different world! We also saw the evening ceremony last night, where we sat on some steps at a ghat, and watched 5 people play drums, sing, wave fire and flowers around, and thank the mother earth and mother river for providing for them. It was stunning and a lovely thing to do - to appreciate all that they have. (It would be nice if they didn't tip their rubbish into the water though)...

We've done yoga twice with a lovely guy who looks a little strange (not sure I'm used to male yoga bodies yet, especially very short ones), and who's stretched, pulled and massaged us into pain and relaxation. Yes into pain. His massages really hurt - he was doing chinese burns on my wrist! I did stop him pounding my ears though, as I'm not sure his 'massages' would really help them! But we feel virtuous, and can eat a chocolate brownie at the delicious bakery today when we go there to write our journals. (So busy or chatting so much, either to each other or to other people here, that have no time for journals! Very very bad).

Heading back to Delhi tonight, got one night there then heading overnight on the bus this time, to Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj, to hopefully learn some tibetan massages, chill out in the mountains and do some more yoga.

So hope all's well with you, and see you soon!
Much love from us both,
Alice xxxxxx